Travellers have
always been drawn to Squamish, from the days of the Coast Squamish
people, who journeyed between Burrard Inlet and STA-a-mus at
the mouth of the Squamish River, to more recent times when steamships
began ferrying anglers, climbers, and picnickers to Squamish over
a century ago. Four
rivers merge into one at the northern outskirts of Squamish. The Cheakamus
and Cheekye join forces in quick succession, then the Mamquam swells
the volume in the Squamish just before its confluence with Howe Sound.
There's good
sea kayaking and canoeing on the Squamish River almost
year-round, though you must be wary during high-water volumes. These
traditionally occur during autumn storms and spring snowmelt. Two
of the best locations for launching and taking out are beside the
Squamish River dike on Government Road in the Brackendale neighbourhood,
and at the federal dock at the west end of Loggers Lane in downtown
Squamish, on the Mamquam Blind Channel. The advantage of launching
from the dike is that you have the current in the Squamish running
in your favour. Drift downstream past the Squamish Spit into
Howe Sound with your binoculars at the ready. There's always something
to see along this stretch. If you launch from the federal dock,
be prepared to do some steady paddling around the Squamish Estuary
to reach the Spit. The afternoon winds tend to kick up quite a chop.
Those with open canoes should avoid Howe Sound during these times.
Winter is the
best time to walk the dike trail in the Brackendale Eagle Reserve,
located farther north on the Squamish River. Short days and low
light create an austere atmosphere. Eagles gather in the bare branches
of the black cottonwood trees that tower above the Squamish River.
The trees stand some distance away on the far shore, across the
wide, milk-grey waters. Some trees are decorated with a dozen or
more eagles, mute and motionless. As your eyes scan the forest perimeter,
you can make out hundreds of such shapes. Although many of the eagles
will head north in summer, others nest here year-round, as the bundles
of twigs that bulge out near the tops of some of the cottonwoods
attest. Equally at home here are the skittish glaucous gulls. If
it's a lean winter, their carcasses are just as likely to be on
the menu as the salmon carrion left from late fall coho runs on
the Squamish River. In the early morning hours, before the daily
arrival of bird-watchers, eagles frequent the banks on both sides
of the river. Once the admirers appear, the eagles put the river
between themselves and the gawkers.
Oregon has the
Columbia Gorge, Squamish has the Spit, a long breakwater located
at the mouth of the Squamish River. Although not as well known,
the Squamish Spit is the launch pad for windsurfers, who
rely on its predictable wind, known as a 'squamish,' which blows
each afternoon. So strong is the force of the breeze that carries
across Howe Sound that unwary windsurfers in the waters off the
spit often can't right themselves if they get dunked. An emergency
rescue service is on standby to pluck such hapless types from the
water. On busy summer weekends, there can be more than a hundred
cars parked here. At the very end of the spit is the windsurfer
launch area; you can drive to a drop-off point beside it, unload
your board, then park.
Freshwater river
fishing happens on the Cheakamus River almost year-round. Fishing
is strictly catch-and-release on all the rivers and creeks in the
Squamish region. Unlike the nearby Squamish River into which it
flows, water in the Cheakamus is clear year-round. Anglers cast
from the banks of the Cheakamus for coho salmon in October and November,
for steelhead from late February to April, and for dolly Varden
char year-round.
Nearest Town: Howe
Sound, Squamish, Sea
to Sky Highway