Paddling the Capilano River is amazing, as the well-ordered world nearby suddenly feels so distant as you enter its 3.5-mile (5.6-km) drop-and-pool course. This is an enchanted canyon and should only be attempted by those who can handle its powerful spell. Opinion is divided as to whether this should be attempted in an open canoe, but certainly not before consulting knowledgeable sources. Opinion is united on one necessity, however: have a guide with you when you put in for the first time. By July, water levels begin to drop and the river becomes more technical. Even in summer this is most definitely a wet suit-and-helmet river. There's only one put-in, at the top of the canyon beside the fish hatchery. The Cleveland Dam's presence is a reminder that water levels on the river can fluctuate daily, depending on the amount of water released from the dam (and the sky above). A water gauge at the west end of the weir near the salmon pools indicates the difficulty of the water: 2-3 feet (0.6-0.9 m) equals easy; 4-6 feet (1.2-1.8 m) equals difficult; above 6 feet (1.8 m) equals expert only.

On rainy days this river calls to local intermediate and expert paddlers, who treasure its proximity to home. One such fan is Betty Pratt-Johnson, who wrote the endo-by-endo description of the Capilano in her biblical Whitewater Trips for Kayakers, Canoeists and Rafters, Volume Two. Track it down; then, welcome to the washing machine.

Capilano River Regional Park's hiking trail runs 5 miles (8 km) north from Ambleside Park to Capilano Lake. As you follow the Capilano River Trail upstream from Ambleside Park (a short section of the trail is also signed as West Vancouver's Town Trail), it will lead you through a residential neighbourhood before reaching the wilder side of the park. From this point north there's easy access to the boulder-filled river. For many visitors, this sea-level section of the park provides enough exploring to take up an entire visit. For others, there's a long ribbon of trail to follow as the Capilano-Pacific Trail leads along the west side of Capilano Canyon to the Fish Hatchery and Cleveland Dam. Allow three to four hours to complete the round trip from Ambleside Park.

The Capilano River Fish Hatchery in Capilano River Regional Park teems with piscicultural activity year-round. The best part about it is that visitors get to spy on the fry through glass walls that surround their tanks. It's like a giant aquarium set in a rock canyon.

As you make your way north from Ambleside, the banks of the Capilano River begin to narrow. Near Highway 1, the trail climbs away from the river and follows Keith Road for a short distance north beneath the Upper Levels Highway Bridge. If your plan is simply to hike the forest trail and explore some of the pools in the Capilano River Canyon, this is the best place to begin. By car, take Keith Road east off Taylor Way and drive to its end. Park here near the trailhead. A Greater Vancouver Regional District (GVRD) signpost indicates the start of this section of the Capilano-Pacific Trail. At this point the trail has the appearance of a charming country lane.

The nearby forest is interlaced with old logging roads. In 1926, once logging ended, Capilano became one of the first municipal parks on the North Shore. Occasionally a short secondary trail leads downhill into the Capilano River's narrow canyon. The one to Ranger Pool is moderately steep in places, but worth the effort to enjoy the view of the canyon from its riverbed. The overstorey of tall evergreens, combined with a mass of ferns that carpet the forest floor, imbue the environment with a uniform green essence year-round. One of the great joys of visiting here is the quiet that permeates the atmosphere. Even when it's raining, the branches of the forest are so sheltering that much of the moisture never reaches the ground. You'll find a good spot to take a break at one magnificent viewpoint, where the canyon can be seen dropping away sharply to the river below. A conveniently placed bench sits beneath towering Douglas firs here. Just south of this viewpoint, a short trail leads down to the Sandy Point Pools.

North of the viewpoint the Capilano-Pacific Trail leaves the river for a while and crosses two major creeks. At Houlgate Creek, a branch of the main trail leads higher up to the Shinglebolt viewpoint. Explore the Shinglebolt on a clear day when the trail isn't too muddy. As seen from the viewpoint, Capilano Lake spreads towards the Lions, and the landscape looks wonderfully composed. A warren of trails winds through the woods here. Despite logging, some beautiful old trees remain along the trails on the west bank. Easygoing Rabbit Lane Trail (2.5 miles/4 km return), which loops through the forest and links with the Capilano-Pacific Trail in several places, was the route used by the Capilano Timber Company railway and accounts for the gentle grade. Nearby is Capilano River Regional Park's North Vancouver entrance.